Thanksgiving

Jeannie & I drove home  early Tuesday morning for the Thanksgiving day holiday. We had a great time with Billy and Johnny, a wonderful dinner and a relaxing time.  Katie could not travel back from Ca., but we will see her at Christmas.
Still feeling the effects of having eaten way too much. But it was so good, it was hard to resist.

Today Saturday we drove back to Charleston and Seabright to begin phase II. We will stay here for most of the week and see the sights and explore the culinary treats and then resume our trip south.

Ben Sawyer Bridge

In my last post I talked about the Ben Sawyer Bridge and how it was slated to be close while the span is replaced. And in the process closing the ICW

Here is a fascinating link to a animated video showing how the span is being replaced

http://www.bensawyerbridge.com/news.shtml#video

To Charleston SC

As we traveled down the ICW bound for Charleston the weather was a bit warmer but was cloudy with scattered drizzle and light fog.

We had to lower our antennas in order to pass under the Ben Sawyer Bridge. This bridge has a clearance of 31' at high tide. We need a clearance of 30' with our antennas down. Bridges do not want to open for clearances that include your antennas, so, down they came. It is a bit challenging because our flybridge is enclosed so the antennas are hard to reach. Jeannie needs to keep the boat steady and in mid channel against whatever current, wind or traffic and I stand on a thin ledge and take them down, about a 5-10 min process. We did it without incident and went under the bridge. This was only the second bridge where this was necessary, the first was Barefoot Landing swing bridge in Myrtle Beach.  All of the other bridges were easy to go under with either tall clearances or were short enough that there was no question.

The Ben Sawyer Bridge has been a worry spot for several months. They plan to close the ICW for a bit over a week to replace the span with a new one. Quite an operation. However if you are traveling the ICW during this time you need to plan a run outside in the ocean to go around this area. There are really no alternatives, or you are stuck. This time of year the cold fronts come through often enough that going outside is often not feasible. The original dates for this closure would have impacted us as we headed south. There was enough uproar over the timing that they delayed it until mid December and then changed it again to the week after Thanksgiving. When we went past, all of the heavy equipment needed to remove and replace the old span  seemed to be there. Would be interesting to watch but we are absolutely thrilled to have it behind us!

We traveled through Isle of Palms which is very nice but the weather was so poor everything had that gray look to it.  We headed into Charleston Harbor in the late morning, we had made good time in what was a short run of 30 nm, compared to other days of 70nm.
When we turned the corner past the last markers into the harbor, we were hailed by a motor yacht who had become lost in the fog and had stopped at channel market( r38) going the wrong way. He was a delivery boat captain running a boat south for a brokerage company. He indicated that he did not have good electronics and his radar was not working correctly. Visibility was poor at less than 200 ft. He was .8nm NE of us, so we turned to starboard and located him. Easy to find and asked that he follow us as we turned around and went back to the correct course heading to the Charleston City Marina. He was a nice guy and we were happy to help.

We arrived at the Mega Dock, Charleston City Marina. This is easily the largest face dock we have ever seen. And it was packed with all types of boats, both mega yachts and small sailboats; a veritable potpourri of boating. Easy to dock and we were all set. Our big chore was to travel to the car rental and pick up a car for our trip home for Thanksgiving. Following that there are the usual boat chores of cleaning and stowing things, with the added twist that we would be away for a few days.

Tuesday morning we left before 6am to beat the Charleston rush hour and get home at a reasonable time. Our driving trip was uneventful though more tiring than boating but we are now home and the boys are all converging for a big dinner on Thursday. Katie cannot come this year from Ca., too far to travel for a short holiday but will be here for Christmas.

We plan on returning Saturday or Sunday depending on when everyone heads back out. We will spend a week in Charleston doing boat chores and exploring the city, then head south again.

Here is the link to our current location. I like to view it  using the sat view,  much more interesting.

All photo's by Jeannie

Our current location

Myrtle Beach to Bull Creek

We left Myrtle Beach on a cloudy and cool morning. A fairly uneventful departure.

Rather quickly we transitioned to Carolina low country, and then there were birds everywhere!!

A flock of skimmers

                                A magnificent pair of mature eagles in a wonderful setting

                                 Including this lone eagle less than a mile down the waterway spotted by      Tommy & Renee aboard Tomahawk, our cruising partner on our leg to Charleston.

We anchored along with Copeing & Tomahawk in Bull Creek which is just off the ICW at mm381. It is on the east side of the waterway and very easy to enter with over 20-15 ft of water in through the first turn. We anchored in the middle with 13-14 ft of water all around us. A cold front was coming through, so we had plenty of rain and wind. There is slightly less than a 5 foot tidal range and with winds gusting to 25' we put out 120 feet of anchor chain and had a good hold. We swung in a semi circle all night but stayed where we should have. Great anchorage.

Myrtle Beach

You can say what you want about the ICW, but certainly there are some eclectic sights and scenes along the way.
This lonely looking lady caught our eye, the shoes are a nice touch.

Sometimes the yard art and messaging have a punitive tone, such as no wakes or else, or non punitive as in the artsy lonely lady pictured above. But in this yard I would bet lives an engineer, I am sure it is accurate. And helpful too.

Admittedly my eye somehow always finds the food. Heck they say they even deliver! What a deal, burgers and beer.

We went past a number of waterfront restaurants, we were looking at them taking pictures as they were looking at us taking pictures. Quite the show!

Jeannie getting some helm time. It was a bit chilly. One day we are in short sleeved shirts and the next in our cold weather gear.

Ahh Myrtle Beach, we are re-entering civilization??

This was the view from the port side as we were cursing by. A bit jarring when compared to what had been a remote and quite waterway.  Wings and Dunkin Donuts: it makes your heart flutter!

Looks like one too many engine room checks at the end of a long day.
We do have a bit of fun.

To Wrightsville Beach NC

We have been running for the past 2 days and have made great progress. The best way I can describe sections of this portion of the trip is: NO WAKE. We typically run at 8.5 kts. Not particularly fast, about 9.75 mph, so not a screaming speed. There were so many places where we needed to slow down due to no wake zones that it really reduced our average speed by quite a bit.

Another issue is bridges. This stretch was particularly vexing. There were 5 bridges stretched out from a few miles to over 20nm. Each opened on a particular schedule that did not always work in sequence. For example some open on request, a good thing, some open on the half hour and some open on the hour. The challenge was the hour opening bridges. It is really difficult to miss an opening of a bridge that only opens on the hour and  keep the boat in position against a current and other boat traffic.



Another issue most boaters are way too familiar with is navigational depths of the ICW. By statue the waterway is to be maintained to a depth of 12'. The reality is something else altogether. There are many places where you must look closely at the tides in order to avoid running aground. There are web sites and companies whose sole purpose is to either inform you where and what the problem areas are or to help you out in the event of a grounding..

This is part of a dredging operation that we passed after coming out of Snows Cut. and going into Cape Fear. The priority of these efforts goes first to commercial needs and low down on the priority list is the pleasure boater. But the waterway is improving especially when merchants complain that they are losing business because customers are avoiding their area due to waterway problems.

Here is another rather creative way of encouraging a slow go...

We arrived in Wrightsville  Beach as it was getting dark. The bridges were a challenge from a timing perspective and was maybe the most challenging so far. But after the last one we cruised into the marina.

The next morning as we prepared to leave we had this entertaining view. I am not sure I have ever seen anyone standing up on a surf board paddling. There were several groups who looked to be racing. The boards looked to be specially made for this type of sport.

Camp Lejune to Wrightsville Beach NC

Having dropped anchor we settled into what we thought was a three hour wait. The marine tower overlooking the waterway was visible from our bow. We had planned for a long day due in part to the total distance, shoaling and way too many bridges. This unexpected stop really complicated the day.

So in a moment of stress we did what comes naturally...we ate..lunch more specifically, as in a chili dog and homemade turkey soup hmmm. Copeing and Tomahawk both had also settled into what we assumed would be a lengthy wait. Unexpectedly, after an hour the guard boat announced the waterway was open and to proceed through. We hustled & pulled up the anchor and headed back down the ICW. Soon after getting underway they stopped a number of boats behind us, closing the water way again for 3 hrs. Glad we got through. We passed numerous armed marine amphibious boats and once having cleared out of the Camp Lejune area we heard live fire and explosions.

We passed down desolate parts of the waterway the were quite nice, undeveloped and serene.

Even passing some rather colorful and unique homes. This was a pepto-bismo pink house and you could literally see it from quite a distance. Would not have surprised me in the least if it glowed. Certainly the owners wanted to make a bold statement. Boy did they

Now this is an image that says it all. Cold beer, hot dogs. Gas and no wakes. So many contradictions, so much to ponder on... & bait no less. A veritable one stop shopping for the truly enlightened boater.

After passing a rather more upscale area on the waterway including this charming shrimper, "Foxy Lady". For indeed, she was foxy, we turned the corner and headed into Wrightsville Beach and docked a bit after 6pm. Settling into a nice quiet dinner on our boat.

Camp Lejune

Date line Camp Lejune:

We had an unexpected stop.
They are having artillery practice and have closed the waterway to all boat traffic.
So we are anchored on the ICW waiting til we think 1:30 for the waterway to open again.

So we are having lunch and looking forward to moving again.

You can see our location by clicking on the link: http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0YbgAe68AMPZoLxpBHQYaVI86IlerZvb3

or on the blog there is a link

Coinjock to Belhaven to Morehead City.....

Finally internet & a few moments to work on a note! We left Coinjock NC after a wonderful dinner at the marina restaurant and happy expectations of tomorrow's trip. Because of the lock closure of the past few days the marina was full with happy boaters who have been pent up in Norfolk.

There is always interesting sights along the waterway including this boat ready for the duck hunting season. Coinjock, well known and appreciated by boaters along the waterway as more than a wide place in the waterway but  as the place to stop for prime rib. Ahh the challenges of south bound cruising.

One of the many challenges..er ..irritating...er... fascinating things you encounter are bridges the joy and bane of ICW cruising. So interesting mechanically, so different, what can I say, just not something to  rush because there is little rushing...

This is the bridge, North Landing Hwy,  just south of Coinjock, it swings open pivoting on it's axis. This bridge is being worked on so it opened only the right segment..adds to your pucker power.

 Tomahawk and Copeing going through the Alligator River Bridge.

Here resides the all powerful bridge tender, the giver of opening and closings. A maker of your day or it's destroyer. The power to make it a good day or something worse. This guy was really great, friendly and helpful, others ...well not so.

Onward to Bellhaven, we decided to anchor out. So how to do this and still commune with friends and how to get to dinner without great effort? We rafted up. Here is Copeing and Tomahawk with us waiting in the wings.

Here are all three together. Looks like the Outer Reef Rendezvous without a dock! No muss no fuss, just us and the water.

Here is a good shot of Ray Cope our Master Mariner and all around good guy. He and Susan hosted a wonderful dinner, such gracious hospitality.

We are fortunate that not only are the Copes traveling with us but Tommy and Renee are with us. They both count for decades of experience and good friendship.

Here Jeannie getting some serious helm time. Her time for the watch and keeping us on the straight and narrow....

The ICW is always so interesting, some of the great sights that are hard to find anywhere else. Where else can you find a salmon colored seahorse adorned house one minute ......

And then the next a majestic eagle

  Tomorrow we need to decide if we run out side (ocean) or inside (ICW). hmmmm decisions decisions...

Coinjock NC

This is going to be a short written note but many pictures, we have to go to dinner soon.
We left Norfolk at 7:30 And ran the bridge and lock gauntlet.
Here are a series of pictures beginning in the industrial side of the waterway.

 

 

 This part of the waterway while not attractive is very intesting.

When we came to the first of many bridges there were a total of 12 motor vessels and 6 sail boats all waiting to go. It was quite a dance to stay in position with the many boats and current and wait for the bridge to open.

Finally the Great bridge Lock, which was filled to capacity!

 

The weather has turned cooler, cloudy and windy...erg..
Tomorrow Belhaven where we will find an anchorage.......

Be sure to link to SPOT and see our route

Norfolk Va.

Today started as a very pleasant and sunny day in downtown Norfolk Va. Jeannie and I decided this would be a lemonade day. since we were uncertain when the Great Bridge Lock would open and we could be stuck here for some period of time. We had heard various reports of the lock opening ranging from today or not until Wednesday. So when you get handed lemons make lemonade. We started with boat chores. For some reason I always dock on the starboard side, but this time we are docked port side to so I was able to clean some areas that are normally hard to get to. A good feeling. Staying an extra day also allowed Ray & Susan Cope of Copeing and Tommy and Renee Closs of Tomahawk a chance to catch up with us. They are also OR 65's so there will be 3 of us headed together down the ICW. The weather outside (offshore) does not look good for the next five days at the very least so it will be an inside run. We will play the tide game and be careful with some of the more notorious shoaling spots.

While working outside we had quite a show as this large amphibious carrier went by. It was escorted by a fleet of tugs, a helicopter and security boats. Very impressive.  

So what to do....go shopping and have lunch. Downtown Norfolk has changed a bit since we were last here and is quite nice. We plan on lunch at Domo Japanese restaurant, a trip to the large mall and then some grocery shopping. All of this within easy walking distance.

  While walking to the restaurant we passed the USS Wisconsin, a retired and now museum battleship. Quite a sight and an interesting day for an unplanned stay over.
Tonight the group will head out for a nice Italian dinner. Tomorrow Coinjock NC and a bit different setting. 
The Great Bridge lock opened up this afternoon and boats are not getting through. We will be off tomorrow to make the first bridge at its 8:30 opening, after the rush hour restrictions are lifted. 

We left this morning and it started out chilly on the water, so we are well prepared for the elements. Nanook (Jeannie) of the north is certainly prepared for this chilly adventure. You just gotta love the hat... We have a real style thing going on here.

Certainly not one to be out done, you cannot see my double socks!

It started out very cloudy and we thought we might have a few showers, which seemed in keeping with this system that refuses to let us go. After a few hours however, the clouds parted and lo and behold there is a sun and the warm up begins.

It was a very pleasant ride south with sea about 1-2 ft.  A few days ago it was 6-8 ft...what a difference a few days make.




We did not see many boats or ships for most of the trip south until we reached Thimble Shoals and the entrance to Hampton and Norfolk Va. Suddenly it was very congested with many tugs, as well as large and small vessels.

We went past a sailing regatta, just outside the shipping lane in Norfolk, kind of a tight space but they were having fun on a sunny Sunday afternoon.




Norfolk Naval Yard is the largest Navy facility on the east Coast and is truly impressive from the water.

For today's trip we traveled 60.1nm in about 7.5 hrs. We average a speed of about 8kts. Coming into Hampton Roads we had one heck of a current pushing against us of over 2kts. We averaged 8.5-9 gph and a turn rate of 1500 rpms. By the time we arrived it was sunny and warm. So off came the coats and on go short sleeve shirts and you could almost talk me into shorts. What a difference a day makes!
This evening we are in an urban marina in downtown Norfolk and as the sign outside the boat says Have a nice day!